Panamanian Fried Corn Cakes (Tortilla Changa)
Tortilla changa Say it: tor-TEE-yah CHAHN-gah
Tortilla changa is Panama's answer to the corn cake: a thick, hand-pressed patty of yellow cornmeal, salted and fried until the crust crackles and the middle stays dense and sweet-corn tender. It belongs to the rural kitchens of the Azuero Peninsula, where it appears beside fried fish, a bowl of beans or a cup of coffee at breakfast. There is nothing fancy about it — corn, water, salt, hot oil — but that is exactly the point: cheap, filling and deeply savoury.
Panamanian Fried Corn Cakes (Tortilla Changa)
Tortilla changa
Pronounced tor-TEE-yah CHAHN-gah
- Serves
- 4
- Prep
- 20 min
- Cook
- 20 min
- Total
- 40 min
- Level
- Easy
Also nut-free and egg-free.
Allergens: none of the major allergens in the listed ingredients. Check labels on packaged ingredients.
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
Dough
For frying
Method
Whisk the cornmeal and fine salt in a wide bowl. Pour in the warm water in a steady stream, stirring with a wooden spoon, until a firm, coarse, slightly crumbly dough comes together.
Knead the dough in the bowl for 3 to 4 minutes, until it holds together when squeezed. If it crumbles, work in warm water 1 tablespoon at a time; if it sticks, dust with a little more cornmeal.
Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the dough rest for 15 minutes so the cornmeal absorbs the water evenly.
Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces and roll each into a smooth ball. Flatten each ball between your palms (or between sheets of parchment) into a disc about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across and 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) thick, pinching the rim so the edges stay rounded and do not split.
Pour the oil into a heavy skillet to a depth of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) and heat to 350°F (175°C); a crumb of dough should sizzle at once without browning instantly.
Fry the cakes in batches of three or four, turning once, for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until deep golden and the edges are crisp and ridged. Do not crowd the pan or the oil will drop in temperature.
Lift the cakes out with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with coarse salt while still hot and eat them straight away, while the crust is crisp.
Regional variant: Tortilla changa con queso (cheese corn cakes)
Fold 1 cup (120 g) crumbled queso fresco or grated firm white cheese into the rested dough, or tuck a spoonful into the centre of each ball and seal it before flattening. Reduce the salt in the dough to 1 teaspoon (6 g), since the cheese is salty. Fry exactly as above; the cheese softens into the crumb and the cakes turn richer and heavier, which is how they are often served for breakfast.
Cook's notes
- Masa harina can replace the cornmeal for a smoother, more tender cake; use the same weight and add water gradually, as it drinks less.
- Keep the oil at a steady 350°F (175°C): too cool and the cakes soak up oil, too hot and they brown before the middle sets.
- Shape the cakes while the dough is still warm and pliable — cold dough cracks at the rim and splits in the oil.
Serve with
Fried fish or stewed beans with a squeeze of lime, or simply a slice of queso fresco and strong black coffee.
Make ahead and storage
Best eaten hot from the oil. The shaped raw cakes can be layered with parchment and refrigerated for a day; reheat cooked ones in a dry skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes a side.
