Fried Syrup Pastries (Tullumba)
Tullumba Say it: tool-LOOM-bah
Tullumba appear on celebration tables in Kosovo and the wider Balkans, most often during Ramadan, Eid, weddings, and other festivities, set out next to coffee. Bite through the ridged golden shell and you find a crisp edge, a tender center, and lemon-scented syrup caught in every groove. The dough is a choux-style mix piped straight into hot oil, so the practical move is to chill the syrup first, keep the oil steady, and fry in small batches; the pastries are best once cooled to room temperature.
Fried Syrup Pastries (Tullumba)
Tullumba
Pronounced tool-LOOM-bah
- Serves
- 6
- Prep
- 30 min
- Cook
- 45 min
- Total
- 1 hr 15 min
- Level
- Medium
Also nut-free.
Allergens: contains gluten, milk, egg. Check labels on packaged ingredients.
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
For the syrup
For the dough
For frying
Method
For the syrup, put the sugar, water, and lemon juice in a pot. Set over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to a boil. Lower the heat and keep at a gentle simmer for 10-12 minutes, until the syrup thickens a little. Take the pot off the heat and let the syrup cool all the way; it needs to be cold when the hot pastries go in.
For the dough, choose a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and add the water, butter, and salt. Over medium-high heat, bring it to a full rolling boil and wait until the butter has melted completely. Pull the pan off the heat, tip in the flour and semolina at once, and beat hard with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together as a smooth ball that leaves the sides of the pan.
Put the pan back over low heat and stir the dough constantly for 1-2 minutes so it dries a little. Move the dough to a mixing bowl and leave it for 5 minutes to cool. Add the eggs one at a time, using a wooden spoon or hand mixer, and mix each egg in fully before adding the next. When done, the dough should be smooth and glossy, thick enough to hold its piped shape, yet soft enough to pass through a star tip.
Warm the vegetable oil in a deep, wide pot to 340°F (170°C). Put a large open star tip (about 1/2 inch / 12 mm) on a piping bag. Pipe 2-3 inch (5-8 cm) lengths directly into the oil, snipping the dough with oiled scissors or a small knife. Fry in batches, turning now and then, for 4-5 minutes, until deeply golden brown and crisp. Lift out and drain on paper towels.
While the pastries are still hot, put them into the cold syrup and turn once to coat. For a crisp exterior, soak for 30-60 seconds; for a softer, fully soaked result, leave them for 2-3 minutes. Lift them out with a slotted spoon, let the excess syrup drip away, and put them on a serving plate. Continue with the rest of the dough. Serve at room temperature.
Regional variant: Flour-only tullumba (tullumba me miell)
Leave out the semolina and use 1 1/2 cups (190 g) all-purpose flour plus 2 tablespoons cornstarch instead. Follow the same method: cook the flour mixture in the saucepan, then beat in the eggs. This dough is a little softer, so pipe it with care; the frying time may be 30 seconds shorter. Keep the syrup and soaking steps the same.
Cook's notes
- A large open star tip gives the pastries deep ridges; those ridges crisp well in the oil and trap syrup.
- Hold the oil at a steady temperature. If it falls under 325°F (160°C), the pastries take in extra oil and feel heavy.
- Chill the syrup thoroughly before the hot pastries go in. The contrast in temperature lets the syrup soak in without making the pastries soggy.
Serve with
Offer them at room temperature with black tea or strong Turkish coffee.
Make ahead and storage
Keep them in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days; they will soften over time. To bring back crispness, warm them in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 5 minutes, or serve them at room temperature.
