Idrija Potato Dumplings with Lamb Sauce (Idrijski žlikrofi)
Idrijski žlikrofi Say it: ee-DREE-skee ZHLEE-kroh-fee
A plate of Idrijski žlikrofi brings together delicate egg-pasta parcels and a deeply savory lamb sauce. The small hats come from Idrija, where potato, onion, herbs and smoked bacon or cracklings are tucked into thin dough. Their partner is bakalca, a lamb braise sharpened with vinegar and spices and simmered until rich and tangy. This is a dish for a leisurely cooking session: shape the dumplings, let the sauce bubble, then serve everything hot in wide bowls.
Idrija Potato Dumplings with Lamb Sauce (Idrijski žlikrofi)
Idrijski žlikrofi
Pronounced ee-DREE-skee ZHLEE-kroh-fee
- Serves
- 6
- Prep
- 45 min
- Cook
- 2 hr
- Total
- 2 hr 45 min
- Level
- Medium
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
For the dough
For the filling
For the lamb sauce (bakalca)
Method
For the dough, combine the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Form a hollow in the center, drop in the egg and 2 tbsp of the cold water, and work with a fork until the mixture looks shaggy. If the dough feels dry, mix in the remaining water a little at a time. Turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 5–8 minutes, until it is smooth yet still firm. Cover the dough and leave it to rest for 30 minutes.
While the dough rests, prepare the filling. Boil the potatoes in salted water for 15–20 minutes, until they can be pierced easily; drain thoroughly, mash or pass them through a ricer, and allow to cool. In a small pan set over medium heat, fry the bacon or ocvirki until the fat melts and the pieces are crisp but not tough. Stir in the onion and garlic and cook for 3–4 minutes, until softened and just beginning to color. Add this mixture to the potatoes along with the egg yolk, parsley, marjoram, salt and pepper, then blend thoroughly.
Roll the rested dough on a floured surface until it is as thin as possible, roughly 1/16 in (1.5 mm). Beat the egg white that was set aside. On one half of the dough, arrange teaspoon-sized heaps of filling in rows, leaving about 1 in (2.5 cm) between them. Lightly brush the dough around the filling with egg white, fold the uncovered half over the top, and press gently to close the edges around each heap. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut between the heaps to create separate squares. To finish the classic shape, bring two opposite corners of each square together underneath the filling and pinch them to form a small hat.
Fill a large pot with salted water and bring it to a rolling boil. Add the žlikrofi in batches so they have room to move, stirring gently once. Cook them until they rise to the surface and the pasta is tender, 4–5 minutes after they float. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and keep them warm while you cook the rest.
Begin the sauce by warming 2 tbsp of the lard in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Pat the lamb dry, season with salt and pepper, and brown it in batches until deeply golden on all sides, 6–8 minutes per batch; move the browned meat to a plate. Put another 2 tbsp of lard in the pot, add the onions and carrots, and cook, stirring often, for 6–8 minutes, until they soften and take on light color. Return the lamb and its juices to the pot, then add the bay leaves, cloves, vinegar and enough water to barely cover the meat, about 2 cups (480 ml). Lower the heat and simmer partly covered for 1.5–2 hours, until the lamb is very tender.
Transfer the lamb pieces to a plate. Remove and discard the bay leaves and cloves. Blend the sauce in the pot with an immersion blender, or press it through a food mill, until it is smooth; taste and adjust salt and pepper. In a separate small pan, melt the last 3 tbsp of lard over medium heat, whisk in the flour, and stir for about 2 minutes, until the mixture smells toasted and turns pale gold. Whisk this roux into the puréed sauce, bring it to a gentle simmer, and cook for 3–5 minutes, until it thickens. Put the lamb back into the sauce and heat it through.
Spoon the warm žlikrofi into wide bowls, ladle the lamb and sauce over them, and finish with extra parsley if you like.
Regional variant: Žlikrofi with mushroom sauce (žlikrofi z gobovo omako)
Prepare the dumplings as described above. For the mushroom sauce, cook 1 lb (450 g) sliced mushrooms, a chopped onion and a garlic clove in butter or lard until softened. Season with salt, pepper and marjoram, then add 1 cup (240 ml) sour cream or crème fraîche and simmer until the sauce thickens. Fold the cooked dumplings through the sauce and scatter chopped parsley over the top.
Cook's notes
- If you want the most traditional filling, choose ocvirki (pork cracklings) rather than bacon. When the cracklings seem dry, add a teaspoon of their fat to the pan as the onion cooks.
- Aim for the thinnest sheet of dough you can manage; dumplings made with thick dough feel heavy. Any dough waiting to be rolled should stay covered so it does not dry out.
- The lamb sauce may be prepared in advance and gently reheated; its flavor becomes even fuller after a night in the refrigerator.
Serve with
Serve the dumplings in wide bowls with plenty of lamb sauce spooned over the top. A simple green salad and a glass of Slovenian Teran or Refošk red wine are traditional accompaniments.
Make ahead and storage
Shaped žlikrofi can be frozen: set them on a floured tray until firm, then transfer to a bag and cook them straight from frozen. The lamb sauce keeps for up to 2 days and can be reheated gently.
