Bigoli with Duck Ragù (Bigoli con l'anatra)
Bigoli con l'anatra Say it: bee-GOH-lee kohn LAH-nah-trah
Bigoli con l'anatra is a rustic pasta from Vicenza, in Italy's Veneto region. Thick, rough strands of whole-wheat bigoli are tossed with a slow-cooked duck ragù made from browned duck legs, soffritto, white wine and a little tomato. The result is deeply savory and rich, with tender shredded duck clinging to every noodle. Traditionally served on Sundays and feast days, especially during duck season, it is a beloved example of Venetian country cooking where a simple fresh pasta meets a patiently simmered sauce.
Bigoli with Duck Ragù (Bigoli con l'anatra)
Bigoli con l'anatra
Pronounced bee-GOH-lee kohn LAH-nah-trah
- Serves
- 4
- Prep
- 40 min
- Cook
- 1 hr 45 min
- Total
- 2 hr 25 min
- Level
- Medium
Also nut-free and egg-free.
Allergens: contains gluten, milk, celery. Check labels on packaged ingredients.
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
For the bigoli
For the duck ragù
To serve
Method
Make the pasta dough. In a large bowl, whisk together the whole-wheat flour and salt. Gradually add the warm water, mixing with a fork until a shaggy dough forms. Turn onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 8-10 minutes. Wrap in plastic and let rest for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high. Pat the duck legs dry and season all over with salt and pepper. Brown them skin side down until deep golden and the fat renders, about 6-7 minutes. Flip and brown the other side for 2-3 minutes, then remove to a plate.
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, carrot and celery to the pot and cook, stirring often, until soft and lightly golden, about 8 minutes.
Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the white wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom, and simmer until the wine is almost evaporated, about 2 minutes.
Add the tomato passata, stock, bay leaf and rosemary or sage. Return the duck legs and any juices to the pot. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover partially, and reduce the heat to low. Cook, turning the duck once or twice, until the meat is very tender and pulls easily from the bone, about 1 hour 30 minutes.
Remove the duck legs to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, discard the skin and bones and shred the meat with two forks. Return the meat to the sauce. Simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and coats a spoon, about 10-15 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and herb sprig, then season to taste.
Roll out the pasta. Divide the dough in half. On a floured surface, roll each piece to about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Cut into long strips about 1/8 inch (3 mm) wide, dusting with flour to prevent sticking. If you have a bigoli press or pasta extruder with a bigoli die, use it instead for a more authentic rough texture.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the fresh bigoli until al dente, about 2-3 minutes. Reserve about 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the pasta water, then drain well.
Add the drained pasta to the duck ragù and toss over low heat for 1 minute, adding a splash of reserved pasta water if the sauce seems dry. Serve immediately in warm bowls with the grated cheese.
Regional variant: Bigoli con l'anatra e fegatini (with duck livers)
Add 3 oz (85 g) cleaned duck livers to the pot when the soffritto is soft. Cook for 2 minutes, then finely chop or pass through a sieve. Stir the liver back into the sauce during the last 10 minutes of simmering for a richer, more traditional Venetian finish.
Cook's notes
- If you can't find whole-wheat bigoli, use dried bigoli or bucatini; cook according to package directions and toss with the sauce.
- For a more traditional Venetian texture, replace the water in the pasta dough with 2 large duck eggs and reduce the water to only a few drops.
- Don't rush the browning of the duck legs; the deep color adds richness to the sauce.
Serve with
Serve with a simple green salad and a glass of dry Veneto red wine.
Make ahead and storage
The duck ragù can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and reheated gently. Cook the bigoli just before serving.
