Armenian Yogurt and Wheat Soup (Spas)
Սպաս SpasSay it: spahs
In Armenia, spas shifts with the season: it can be a hot, tangy first course in winter or a chilled soup in summer. Hulled wheat simmers until pleasantly chewy, then meets matsun, egg, and flour for a creamy body. Butter-sautéed onion and fresh herbs go in at the end. The practical key is keeping the yogurt smooth, so the hot cooking liquid is added gradually before the mixture returns to the pot.
Armenian Yogurt and Wheat Soup (Spas)
Սպաս, Spas
Pronounced spahs
- Serves
- 6
- Prep
- 30 min
- Cook
- 2 hr
- Total
- 2 hr 30 min
- Level
- Medium
Also nut-free.
Allergens: contains gluten, milk, egg. Check labels on packaged ingredients.
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
Method
Soak the wheat berries in plenty of water overnight, or for at least 6 hours, then drain well.
Combine the drained wheat, 6 cups (1.4 L) water, and 1 tsp salt in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then lower to a steady simmer. Cook partially covered until the grains are tender but still chewy, about 1 hour and up to 1 1/2 hours; pearl barley will be ready sooner. If the water level drops below the wheat, add more hot water.
In a large bowl, whisk the yogurt, egg, and flour to a completely smooth mixture. If the yogurt is especially thick, stir in a few tablespoons of water.
Temper the yogurt by whisking about 2 cups (480 ml) of the hot wheat liquid into the bowl one ladleful at a time. Turn the pot to low. Slowly stream the tempered yogurt back into the pot, stirring constantly.
Cook over gentle heat, stirring frequently, until the soup thickens a little and the flour no longer tastes raw, 10–15 minutes. Avoid boiling, which can curdle the yogurt. Add salt to taste.
In a small skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened and golden, 5–7 minutes. Stir the onion and butter into the soup.
Serve hot, or cool to room temperature and refrigerate until cold for the traditional summer serving. Scatter the cilantro and/or mint over the top just before serving.
Regional variant: Lenten spas (pasuts spas, պասուց սպաս)
For Lenten spas, leave out the egg and butter. Cook the wheat as directed, then thicken the soup with 1–2 extra tablespoons of flour dissolved in cold water. Sauté the onion in vegetable oil rather than butter, or omit it. Finish with fresh herbs as usual.
Cook's notes
- Gradual heat is what keeps the soup silky: whisk the hot wheat liquid in very slowly and keep stirring so the egg and yogurt warm evenly.
- Full-fat yogurt gives the most stable result; lower-fat yogurt is more likely to curdle.
- Chilled spas thickens in the refrigerator. Stir in a little cold water or extra yogurt before serving if a looser texture is wanted.
Serve with
Offer hot spas with lavash and more fresh herbs. The chilled version pairs well with tan, a yogurt drink.
Make ahead and storage
Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat gently with a splash of water, or serve chilled and loosen with cold water.
