Brazilian Fish Porridge (Pirão)
Pirão Say it: pee-ROWN (with a nasal final vowel)
Pirão is a thick, silky porridge from Brazil's coast, made by stirring toasted cassava meal into a fragrant fish broth until it holds a spoon upright. It is the everyday companion to moquecas, fish stews and grilled fish, and a thrifty way to turn fish heads and frames into a satisfying dish. Warm, savory and lightly tangy from lime and cilantro, it is comfort food at its simplest.
Brazilian Fish Porridge (Pirão)
Pirão
Pronounced pee-ROWN (with a nasal final vowel)
- Serves
- 4
- Prep
- 15 min
- Cook
- 45 min
- Total
- 1 hr
- Level
- Easy
Also nut-free and egg-free.
Allergens: contains fish. Check labels on packaged ingredients.
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
For the fish broth
For the pirão
Method
Put the fish heads, frames and trimmings in a large pot with the water, quartered onion, bay leaves and 1 tsp salt. Bring to a boil, skim off the foam, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 25 minutes until the broth smells sweet and the bones release their flavor.
Strain the broth through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids with the back of a spoon; discard the solids and return the clear broth to the pot. Keep it at a bare simmer.
Slide the fish fillet into the hot broth and poach for 5 minutes, until it turns opaque and flakes easily with a fork. Lift it out, let it cool slightly, then flake it, discarding any skin and bones.
In a wide, heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat and cook the chopped onion for 5 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute until fragrant, then add the tomatoes and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until they collapse into a loose sauce.
Pour in 5 cups (1.2 L) of the hot broth, bring to a gentle simmer and stir in the flaked fish, half the cilantro, half the green onion, the lime juice and the pepper. Simmer for 2 minutes, then taste and add salt.
Turn the heat down to low. Sprinkle the cassava meal into the pot in a thin, steady stream while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, so no lumps form.
Keep stirring for 4 to 6 minutes, until the pirão is thick, glossy and pulls away from the sides of the pot, and a spoon stands upright in it. If it feels too stiff, stir in a little more hot broth; if too loose, sprinkle in a spoonful more cassava meal.
Spoon into a warmed serving bowl, smooth the top and scatter over the remaining cilantro and green onion. Serve hot.
Regional variant: Chicken Pirão (Pirão de Galinha)
Replace the fish broth with a homemade chicken broth and the flaked fish with about 2 cups (300 g) of shredded cooked chicken. Simmer the broth with the same onion, garlic, tomato and herbs for 10 minutes before stirring in the cassava meal, and finish with chopped parsley instead of cilantro.
Cook's notes
- Always add the cassava meal to simmering liquid over low heat, in a thin stream, and stir without stopping — that is what keeps the pirão smooth.
- Coarse farinha de mandioca gives the best texture; a very fine one turns gluey quickly, so add it more slowly.
- The broth can be made a day ahead and refrigerated; skim the set fat before reheating.
Serve with
Serve with moqueca, grilled or fried fish, white rice and a squeeze of lime; traditionally accompanied by a cold beer or a caipirinha.
Make ahead and storage
Pirão sets firm as it cools. Store covered in the fridge for up to 2 days and reheat gently over low heat with a splash of broth or water, stirring until it loosens.
