Neapolitan Onion and Beef Ragù Pasta (Pasta alla Genovese)
Pasta alla genovese Say it: PAH-stah ahl-lah jeh-no-VEH-zeh
Pasta alla genovese is Naples’ slow-cooked onion and beef ragù, despite its name unrelated to Ligurian pesto. In Campania it is a Sunday dish: beef chuck and a mountain of onions simmer for hours until the sauce turns dark, sweet and jammy, then it is tossed with ziti or rigatoni. The result is deeply savoury, gently sweet and rich without being heavy, with tender beef folded through the pasta and a final shower of pecorino.
Neapolitan Onion and Beef Ragù Pasta (Pasta alla Genovese)
Pasta alla genovese
Pronounced PAH-stah ahl-lah jeh-no-VEH-zeh
- Serves
- 4
- Prep
- 25 min
- Cook
- 2 hr 45 min
- Total
- 3 hr 10 min
- Level
- Medium
Also nut-free and egg-free.
Allergens: contains gluten, milk, celery. Check labels on packaged ingredients.
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
For the ragù
To finish
Method
Pat the beef dry and season all over with a little salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat and brown the beef until deep golden on all sides, about 8 to 10 minutes, then transfer it to a plate.
Lower the heat to medium, add the carrot and celery, and cook until softened, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more, until fragrant.
Add the onions and 1 teaspoon salt, stir well, cover, and cook over low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are wilted and releasing their liquid.
Uncover, raise the heat to medium, pour in the wine, and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes until the sharp alcohol smell disappears. Return the beef to the pot with the bay leaves, add the broth, and bring to a gentle simmer.
Cover partially and cook very low for 2 to 2.5 hours, stirring every 20 minutes, until the onions are dark golden and jammy and the beef shreds easily; add a splash of water if the pot looks dry.
Transfer the beef to a board, shred it with two forks, and discard the bay leaves. Return the shredded beef to the onion sauce, taste, and adjust salt and pepper; keep warm.
Cook the ziti in well-salted boiling water until al dente. Reserve about 1 cup (240 ml) pasta water, then drain.
Toss the pasta with the ragù, adding splashes of pasta water until each piece is glossy and coated. Serve with the grated pecorino.
Regional variants
Some Neapolitan cooks add a spoonful of tomato paste for a deeper colour, or use a mix of beef and pork. Others serve the meat separately as a second course and toss only the onion sauce with the pasta.
Cook's notes
- Slice the onions no thicker than 1/4 inch (5 mm) so they melt evenly into the sauce.
- Keep the heat low during the long simmer; the onions should stew gently, not fry.
- The ragù tastes even better the next day and can be reheated gently with a splash of water.
Serve with
Crusty bread and a glass of red wine, such as Aglianico.
Make ahead and storage
Cool and refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 2 months; reheat gently with a splash of water.
