Montenegrin Buckwheat Pie (Heljdija)
Хељдија HeljdijaSay it: hel-YEE-dee-yah
Heljdija is a rustic, savory pie from the mountainous north of Montenegro. Made with hearty buckwheat flour, it is traditionally filled with local fresh cheese and rich kajmak (clotted cream). The dish reflects the region’s highland agriculture where buckwheat thrives in poor soil. It has a nutty, earthy flavor balanced by the creamy, tangy filling and is usually served warm as a comforting main or hearty breakfast, especially during colder months.
Montenegrin Buckwheat Pie (Heljdija)
Хељдија, Heljdija
Pronounced hel-YEE-dee-yah
- Serves
- 6
- Prep
- 25 min
- Cook
- 35 min
- Total
- 1 hr
- Level
- Medium
Also nut-free and egg-free.
Allergens: contains gluten, milk. Check labels on packaged ingredients.
Ingredients
Amounts are scaled. Cooking times and pan sizes stay the same.
Method
In a large bowl mix the buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour and salt. Add the warm water and vegetable oil and knead until a soft, slightly sticky dough forms, about 5 minutes. Cover and let rest 15 minutes.
While the dough rests, combine the crumbled cheese, kajmak (or sour cream), chopped onion, and black pepper in a bowl. Mix gently until evenly combined but still chunky.
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Lightly oil a 10-inch (25 cm) round baking pan or cast-iron skillet.
Divide the rested dough into two equal pieces. On a lightly floured surface roll the first piece into a circle large enough to line the bottom and sides of the pan with a little overhang.
Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and gently press it into the corners. Spread the cheese-kajmak filling evenly over the base.
Roll out the second piece of dough to the same size and place it over the filling. Trim the edges and crimp them together to seal tightly.
Brush the top generously with melted butter. Use a sharp knife to cut 4–5 small slits in the top crust to allow steam to escape.
Bake for 30–35 minutes until the crust is golden brown and crisp and the filling is bubbling at the edges.
Remove from the oven and let cool 10 minutes before slicing. Serve warm.
Regional variants
In some highland villages a handful of chopped walnuts or cooked potatoes is added to the filling for extra texture. Modern versions occasionally incorporate spinach or nettles when in season.
Cook's notes
- If kajmak is unavailable, use a 50/50 mix of mascarpone and thick Greek yogurt for a similar creamy tang.
- The dough can be a little sticky; keep your hands and rolling pin lightly floured with buckwheat flour.
- Leftovers reheat beautifully in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 10 minutes to restore crispness.
Serve with
A glass of local buttermilk, a simple green salad, or smoked meats.
Make ahead and storage
The unbaked pie can be assembled and refrigerated up to 6 hours before baking. Baked leftovers keep in the refrigerator for 2 days and reheat well.





